Day 3: Les Contamines to Refuge Mottets via Col de fours

Distance: 22km

Elevation: 1600m

The hardest day in our itinerary by far, though we weren't prepared for quite how hard it was.

Col de fours, the alternate we chose in order to make our scheduled hotel stay. A route with several ascents and descents, paired with the longest stretch of the whole tour, but also some of the best views.

Here, we were blessed with our first glimpse at a mountain ibex. Catching them as the sun was setting while descending to Refuge de Mottets.

We weren't sure what dinner would look like this night, but after checking the dinner hours of the refuge, we realized we could just make it... if I ran ahead.
So I did, after hiking 22km I had enough juice left in my tank to sprint ahead some 15min to secure our names for the dinner reservation.

We camped nearby the Refuge, in a collection of ruins some 10 min walk before you reach the Refuge iteslf. It was quite difficult to find enough space for our tent among the many others camping that night. So I recommend getting there as early as you can. If that fails you, you can continue up past the Refuge, finding more space for camping some 15-20 min walking.

I hope you're as lucky as we were. Given a clear sky, you will have the rare opportunity to gaze at some of the clearest skies in Europe, catching an unforgettable view of the Milky way. So, look up.

Day 3: Refuge Mottets -> Camping Hobo

Distance: 18km

Elevation: 600m

With that awful elevation behind us, and a quick cry at the marvelous dark sky the night before, we moseyed on. Today, we were crossing over into Italy, and perhaps my favorite portion of the trip in terms of photo ops. The valley we passed into on this section of the trip was non-stop awe. Maybe it was the clear sky, maybe it was the deep sense of relief that my thighs let out as we meandered the easy going path.

Lunch was simple but satisfying. We took our pit stop with a sandwich and beer at Refugio Elisbetta

From here, its all a walk in the park. Following the river through the valley, we took the time to relax, chat, and take in the ideal weather we were blessed with.

As for sleeping this night? Since Italy is quite strict about setting up camp and, especially because this day ends so low in elevation, we had two choices, make our way into Courmayeur or sleep at the relatively cheap camp ahead of the city itself.... we picked the cheap option Camping Hobo val Veny.

If you can stand the shouting children and enjoy a social beer or three, this place is for you. It has all the amenities: showers, shop, restaurant, etc. All good enough for the one night we needed them.

Day 4: Courmayeur -> Refuge Bonatti via Tete Bernarda

Distance: 16km

Elevation: 1600m

Continuing from camp, we hopped on the bus that stops right at camp. I'm glad we did as the walk from camp to Courmeyeur looked not only boring, but treacherous as it followed a busy road.

Courmeyeur offers a great opportunity to take it easy and rest for a day or two. From a hotel, you can wash clothes, shower, and plan the next leg of your trip over a nice meal from one of the many over priced pizza joints in the city. We caught our breath for a night at the wonderful and central Albergo Edelweiss, shout out for letting us check in like 4 hours early <3.

Anyway...

We set out early from Courmeyeur. The path was quite easy to find from the center of town. We topped up on our water reserves at the convenient little spring just before starting the ascent out of the city.

Be sure to take a look back as to not miss the view of Courmeyeur behind you.

We grabbed a quick beer and a break at Rifugio Giorgio Bertone before starting the hardest portion of our journey so far, the variant Tete Bernarda.

This variant was an older route of TMB that has since been replaced by an easier, more direct one, but with fewer people and a bit more of a challenge Tete Bernarda was calling our name.
The elevation was killer on this variant. We ascended and descended several times. Since the path was less travelled and not as clearly marked, there were several times we didn't think we were on the right trail. Luckily, a TMB veteran and her mom passed us on the trail and gave us the assurance we needed to continue with confidence.

We arrived at Rifugio Walter Bonatti narrowly beating a sudden thunderstorm.
A problem for later, as we still needed to set up camp... somewhere.

Bonatti was a Rifugio we had built up some excitement for. You see, Bonatti has been known to have the best dinner of the Rifugios on the TMB. IF, you can get a spot. Having not booked, this could be an issue. We told the workers that we were particularly interested in taking part in the dinner tonight, they would see what they could do...

And they delivered! After dinner was underway, there was just enough room for them to squeeze us in, and it was indeed the best dinner we had on the whole trail. We were treated to a classic pasta al ragu and a perfect risotto. Highly recommend to fit this one in if you can be lucky enough. Unfortunately, the light was too low and cozy to get a picture.

Then there was the issue of setting up camp... We spent the better part of the afternoon just waiting for a break in the downpour to scout a clear spot. Finally after waiting some 4 hours, the rain let up just enough for me to run out some hundred meters or so back up the Tete Bernarda Trail. Just behind an abandoned building, I found barely enough space. 15 minutes later, the tent was fully setup, only slightly wet. There it would sit until dinner was done.

To be continued...